Tuesday, February 20, 2018

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 307 Model#102 - Winter 2017
Loose Fitting Knit Top

To call this top oversized would be an understatement. The silhouette in this drawing looks somewhat shapeless but I forged ahead with this pattern anyway figuring I could always take in some seams to make it fit more to my liking.

Pattern Drafting Hints:    
This pattern has quite a few pieces to draw but none of them are complicated. Often Lutterloh has us draw patterns with the princess seams connected at the cross mark. This pattern has us draw each piece separately so make sure to mark the cross point on each one. See the line drawing for the pattern pieces below.
If you mark a notch at each cross point then you can use these to match up the princess seams when you sew these together. I also made notches at the waist to help align the long princess seams. It never ceases to amaze me how even separately drawn pieces line up so perfectly once the pattern is enlarged.

Fabric Used/Suggested:  
My gray top is made from two different reversible fabrics. The solid, quilted fabric is a cotton poly blend with thin batting between the layers. The print fabric is a rayon poly blend with stripes on one side and dots on the other. These fabrics both have stretch but the thinner, print fabric has a lot more than the heavier quilted fabric. This may have been the reason I had problems with rippling when I sewed these together. I left off the top stitching to avoid any further distortion of the seams. 
Although I'm pleased with my extra warm version of this top I think next time I would try it in all one fabric like velour or a ponte knit. 

Design Changes:  
As I mentioned this pattern is rather oversized. I fit mine as I sewed and found the silhouette to be unflattering as the pattern was intended. I ended up serging off all the seam allowance that was added and then serged off another 1/4" to 1/2" on each of the seams again. You likely noticed that my version is longer than the model's too. I added my usual half inch to the bodice pieces and then an extra two inches to the bottom. The last change was to exchange the funnel neck opening for a hood. I used a hood pattern from a top with a similarly open neckline and this fit just fine. 

Closing Hints:  
Now that my family has seen me wearing this top I have decided not to make another one.

My son's first comment was "It's so baggy." 

The only slightly more complimentary comment from my husband was "It looks comfortable."

Good thing I only intended this to be a nice, warm top for walking the dog. Oh well, the pocket is handy, the fabric is super soft and the hood is perfect for foggy mornings and breezy afternoons. 

On to the next project then!  

I hope these reviews help you to decide on your next project.

Ann in Calif.  

Sunday, January 7, 2018

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 307 Model #118 - Winter 2017
 Children's Knit Pajamas or Lounge-wear

I'm calling these lounge-wear because, according to the US government, children's sleepwear must either be flame resistant or fit so closely to the body so not to cause the potential for catching fire from a spark. In either case I say "ewww". I just cautioned the parents of my recipient of the lack of government standards for these pajamas and figured they can decide their suitability. Have you noticed that all the flannel at the fabric store has a disclaimer stating that the fabric is not intended for children's sleepwear?

Pattern Drafting Hints:      
The pattern for these pajamas indicates it is intended for children 3 - 6 years old. The child I made them for is only two but I forged ahead anyway. I figured 48cm was close enough to the 50cm, where the Lutterloh scale starts. The sleeves appear to be 3/4 length in the drawing but I found them to be plenty long enough for full length sleeves once the pattern was enlarged.

Fabric Used/ Suggested:     
The tiny giraffe print used for these pajamas is a very fine, cotton rib knit. The orange bands are a poly blend with a chunky ribbing texture. The pattern does suggest a knit for this pattern so if you wanted to use a woven fabric like flannel you would likely need to add a wider neck opening either at the center front or back or perhaps at one shoulder with snaps. 

Design Changes:     
The only design change I made to this pattern was to use slightly wider ribbing bands. I find when making pajamas for growing toddlers this helps extend the length a little. Because the bands are tight enough around the wrists and ankles the extra length doesn't hinder their movement but it does extend the length of time they can wear them. Although not really a design change I did cut these with no seam allowances because they were drawn slightly larger than necessary.

Closing Hints:     
I'm pleased to have a pajama pattern that I can use as this toddler grows. It would be easy enough to make these pajamas in a short version for Summer so it really is quite versatile. Lutterloh seldom produces patterns for the youngest children so it's nice to see a little more variety. 

Here's wishing you a Happy New Year. Make sure to set aside some time for yourself.

Happy sewing from,
Ann in Calif.

Thursday, December 7, 2017

Make something for the holidays

It's such a lovely time of year
So many parties and gatherings.

Bernice shows us a Lutterloh creation from a simple Lutterloh dress pattern

Here is another one of my  creations from a simple dress pattern (N° 216 - 2015).

An assymetrical dress :

I was always looking out to make an asymmetrical top or dress pattern and since I wanted to make my friend a gift. I chose this simple dress pattern and modified it. 

Design changes in the original pattern :

After drafting this pattern I drew a curved line from the front neck line to the right side and a little below the waste. I drew 12 lines like rays of the sun from this curved line towards the left side. I separated the two parts. For the left side of the pattern I closed the center dart and opened it in the side. For the right side of the pattern I cut along the lines leaving 1 cm at the edge. Next I spread each piece equal distance from each other and with cellotape kept them in place on another sheet of paper. Then I cut out the new paper pattern.

Placing the 2 front parts on the fabric I cut them out. After stitching the underarm dart for the left side, I pinned the pleats of the right side to get its original shape and attached both the right and left side together. I gave more ease for the waist so I didn't need to have a long opening in the back so I kept a small opening just to enter the head.

For the sleeves : I drafted the tee shirt sleeve and transformed it into a petal sleeve.

Difficulties : Though I myself took my friend's measurements I found 2 Lutterloh dress patterns that I drafted were much larger than the normal ease that is given. It was very frustrating not to get things correct at the first attempt. For example the bust measure was 82 cm and Lutterloh was 91 cm - armhole was 42 cm and Lutterloh was 48 cm - waist 68 cm and Lutterloh 84 cm - hips 97 cm and Lutterloh 108 cm. It's not very encouraging for learners to use the Luterloh system when there is too much of adjustment to be made. I have a little experience and a lot of determination to get through so most of the time I succeed in getting what I want.

 It is good to be creative as it helps to be economic too.

Are you all excited to try something new? 
I'd like to take that vest pattern and glitz it up.  

Thanks Bernice!

Monday, November 13, 2017

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 306 Model#41 - Summer 2017
Raglan Sleeve Knit Top

I was trying to use up some remnants of fabric and this top seemed like a good candidate. It might appear to be just an average raglan sleeve top but there's a nice little zipper detail on the front sleeve of one side.

Pattern Drafting Hints:
Due to the raglan design this top is really only semi-fitted. There's plenty of room in the body and sleeves to pull over your head easily. Just enlarge the pattern to your regular Lutterloh measurements and apply any alterations needed for all your Lutterloh patterns. I have found lately that the Lutterloh necklines have been running both a little high and a bit wide for my taste. Make sure to paper fit before cutting your fabric.

Fabric Used/Suggested:
This pattern is designed for knit or stretch fabrics and I would not suggest otherwise. My print is a lightweight rayon/polyester blend and the solid black is a slightly heavier cotton blend interlock. Neither of my fabrics have a great amount of stretch but this pattern is loose enough to accommodate lots of different knits.

Design Changes: 
The one design change I made was to lower the neckline, only on the front piece, by 3/4 of an inch. I did use the sleeve length for the #42 top but this is actually the same pattern piece in two different lengths. I didn't have a decorative zipper so I used a regular 4" one and attached a charm. It's actually half of a fancy toggle clasp from my jewelry making supplies but who says hardware can't multitask?
Closing Hints:
This pattern was easy to enlarge, went together like a dream and is a great way to use up some remnants. What's not to like?

I noticed that just this afternoon the new Autumn 2017 Supplement #307 was published for sale on the German Lutterloh site. You can preview it at the link provided below:

I have barely had a chance to peruse it myself but I'm sure there will be something there that I'll be anxious to try. If you have any questions about the Lutterloh patterns or just want to leave a comment please feel free to add it below. 

Happy sewing everyone from,
Ann in Calif.

Sunday, October 15, 2017

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 306 Model #56 - Summer 2017
 Pullover Blouse

After all these years of using Lutterloh patterns I thought it was high time I got around to trying a full figure top pattern. I tried a full figure pants pattern once and it turned out to be a waste of time for me. I had heard that the only difference was a longer crotch length. Well, there was plenty of extra crotch length alright. I needed to chop off four inches from the top of the pants all the way around before I could fit them. I have stuck with the regular patterns ever since. Now that I have completed my first full figure top pattern I wish I hadn't put it off so long.

Pattern Drafting Hints:
The Lutterloh company suggests that their full figure patterns are best suited to people with a  bust or hip measurement of at least 110cm. My measurements aren't quite there but I thought I would give at least one pattern a try. Frank Lutterloh once suggested that when using a full figure pattern, a smaller person could move down 3 to 5 dots on the Lutterloh scale to achieve an acceptable size. Sure enough, this top is the result of using a dot 4 spaces lower than my actual measurement or the equivalent of 8 cm smaller. 

Fabric Used/Suggested:  
Although this pattern does not suggest it I used a lightweight knit for my top. The neckline, with narrow, stitched down facing, is large enough to use a woven fabric and still fit your head through but I wanted some drape to my fabric. Keep in mind that if you do use a woven fabric for this top that you'll want one that isn't too stiff. A limp fabric will be better suited since any fabric that stands away from the body will contribute to the puffiness factor of this top.

Design Changes: 
Again I had to lower the neckline for this pattern. This time by an inch and a half. The bottom and sleeve openings also have elastic in mine instead of a drawstring. I could just imagine dragging those ties through my food or getting them caught in some machinery. The elastic in the casings works better for me. I didn't make any other changes because I was trying to evaluate the usefulness of the full figure patterns. 

Closing Hints: 
Overall I'd say this pattern is a real winner. I may need to lengthen my future patterns, just like I do for the regular size patterns. At least I have the reduction on the scale worked out so I can do this to all the full figure patterns. Yay, this opens up a whole range of patterns I'd been overlooking until now! 

If you've been avoiding the full figure patterns because you thought they may be just too large then think again and give them a try. You may be pleasantly surprised. Here's wishing you a fruitful and productive holiday season ahead.

Happy Sewing,
Ann in Calif.      

Friday, September 29, 2017

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive! - FASHION FLASHBACK

Supplement 142 - Model #60 - Autumn 1976
Knit Top or Dress 

I'll be the first to admit that this is not my favorite knit dress for this year. Yes, the dress is comfortable but is that really enough? I suspect that the error is likely mine in matching fabric to pattern. There's just not enough shape going on for a knit dress for me. 

Pattern Drafting Hints:
This pattern didn't have any flaws in drafting so it went together well. I did appreciate the small tucks in the front of the dress to help control some of the extra fabric. 
It was simple to just pinch out some fabric at the waist and then transfer the marks to the wrong side of the fabric to sew the tucks. The back does not indicate any tucks but with the help of a sewing partner or a dress form you could certainly put a couple in back too.
Fabric Used/ Suggested:
My fabric choice is likely where I went wrong with this dress. The cotton blend interlock that I used has great stretch but only on the crosswise direction. It's actually pretty stable on the lengthwise grain and this is where I could have used a little more give. This pattern is indeed intended for a stretch fabric but I believe a fabric with both length and crosswise stretch is needed to get the right shape for this dress. If you need to leave extra ease to get this dress over your shoulders than it isn't going to be as form fitting as the drawing suggests.  
Design Changes:
I did make a couple design changes to this dress, the first being to shorten it to knee length. The other more obvious change was to the neckline. This pattern does suggest a zipper in the back just to the depth of the yolk. Perhaps if I'd stuck with a back zipper and extended it into the dress I could have ended up with a more shapely silhouette. What I really wanted was some more interest in the front neckline so I omitted the zipper and added a split facing to the center front yolk. Well, at least the facing for the split front worked really well so this project wasn't a complete waste. 
Closing Hints:
Oh well, live and learn. I am determined to find the right pattern for this gifted fabric. It is of good quality and washes well too. I'm sure there's a perfect pattern in my Lutterloh books for this fabric somewhere. 
I hope you're having better luck with your sewing lately. On to Supplement #306 for me!
Happy Sewing All,
Ann in Calif.  

Thursday, August 10, 2017

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

Supplement 305 - Model #237 - Summer 2017
Swimsuit Cover-Up/ Topper

Although this pattern is modeled as a short swimsuit cover-up in the newest supplement I knew I would lengthen it to wear as a lightweight blouse for a cool Summer top layer. The pants in the right picture are also from supp. #305. You can read that review here.

Pattern Drafting Hints:   
The basic shape of this pattern is loosely fitted from the shoulders to the bottom of the armsceye and then flares gracefully to the bottom. Because of the very loose shape, and to save time, I decided to draw the whole pattern using my high bust measurement to fit the shoulders. The contrast bands on my topper are achieved by cutting the pattern apart at the facing lines. I'll detail this further in the design changes below.

Fabric Used/Suggested:    
My version of the pattern is made up in a black and white, rose print, polyester chiffon. The contrast bands are interfaced with a knit interfacing for a little extra weight and stability. Realistically this pattern could be made up in almost any fabric that has enough drape to keep it from standing away from the body. I can imagine this garment in lace, gauze, burnout velvet, knit or even loosely woven rayon or cotton. If your fabric choice is not terribly drapey you might consider adding some weight to the hem with a beaded or ruffled trim.

Design Changes: 
The first design change was to lengthen the entire pattern, front, back and sleeves, by four inches at the cross mark, per the Lutterloh instructions. As I mentioned above, my next design change was to convert the facings into a contrast band. The photo below, on the left, has arrows that point to where I cut the facings from the main pattern.

The photo on the right shows an additional four inches that I added to the back by reshaping the hem to form a more exaggerated shirttail shape. The contrast band on the sleeves is just a three inch wide band, folded, and attached to the sleeve hem. Although it's not indicated on the diagram, I cut my back pattern on the fold because I didn't want the seam to interrupt the lovely floral pattern of my chiffon.

Closing Hints:  
In sheer chiffon this might not make a very effective swimsuit cover but I love it as a breezy Summer top layer! I do prefer this in the longer length for me. My first paper fitting revealed that the pattern would hit right at crotch level just as shown on the model. In any length you prefer I would wholeheartedly recommend this pattern! 

With Summer coming to a close I'd like to remind you that the Autumn supplement #306 is now available for preview. It usually shows up for preview first on the German Lutterloh site here:  https://lutterloh-system.de/produkt-kategorie/archiv/  

We appreciate your comments and are happy to answer any questions you have about this wonderful pattern system. Happy sewing everyone!

Ann in Calif.   

Sunday, August 6, 2017

Guest posting by Bernice

Here I am to present my two outfits made out of 1 pattern (#259-2013)


A raglan top:

This top was chosen because of the raglan sleeve. When I was young we stitched clothes with Magyar sleeves, sleeveless, normal shirt sleeve and the puff sleeve which was simpler and for economical reasons.  Now that I'm sewing on my own for myself and friends I like to try something new.  The shirt sleeve needs more accuracy of starting from the shoulder line whereas the raglan sleeve starts from the neck needs a dart, a few gathers or plain if it is a stretch fabric.  This pattern gives me a perfect fit and I'm sure I'll use it for all my future raglan sleeve patterns.


Design changes in the original pattern:

I wanted to have a different neckline than what the pattern had so:

1-I raised the front neckline by an inch
2-I drew 6 lines from the neckline to the bust line
3-I added 1 inch to the front of the raglan sleeve to correspond with my front neckline.

Then I slit the neckline along the 6 lines I drew, closed the side dart and opened it along the 6 lines.  I placed the paper patterns on the fabric and cut them out.  I stitched 6 darts tapering them from the neckline to the bust line.  I joined the sleeves and stitched the side seams.  A small band was added to the neck.  Since hte collar was a bit loose I stitched 3 rows of elastic on the band.

A Harry Potter Cape

The same pattern that was drafted for my top was used to make a Harry Potter cape.  My colleague's daughter, Sara was invited to a birthday party and the theme was Harry Potter.  So her mother needed a cape for her daughter within a week.  Since I had this pattern already drafted I just needed 2 measurements, the full length and the sleeve length.  So I adjusted the pattern for the length of the cape and the sleeves giving them the necessary shapes. I put a dart in the crown of the sleeves to give it a perfect fit.  I added the hood to the neckline and was able to finish the cape for the birthday party.  It is quite large for her so she can wear it over her clothes like a winter coat and will last her for many more years to come.


Thank you Bernice for this fun look at what can be done with our pattern books!! You surely do enjoy creating.  Can't wait to see what you are planning next.

Monday, July 10, 2017

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!

  Supplement 305 - Model#202 - Summer 2017
Princess Line Capri Pants 

A while back I was offered a free Craftsy class and I chose a pant fitting class from Sandra Betzina. The pattern was very similar to this one but it didn't have pockets. When I saw this pattern in the newest supplement I knew I had to try it.

Pattern Drafting Hints:    
This pattern was simple enough to draw out. The front and back patterns are drawn as just two pieces and then cut apart at the princess lines. Because there are extra seam lines there are more opportunities for adding or subtracting to achieve a better fit.

Once all your lines are connected but before you cut them apart, make sure to mark all your pieces carefully. Some of the pattern pieces look similar so you don't want to get them confused. In fact I left my pattern pieces pinned on my fabric until I was ready to sew them together. Sewing this pattern was very much like putting together a puzzle but everything lined up flawlessly.

Fabric Used/Suggested: 
These pants are made up in a 100% cotton twill. This medium weight twill started out a pale icy lavender but I dyed it to a nice pinkish lilac color. Because I was working on perfecting fit I didn't want any stretch in the fabric. I do think my next pair will either be a softer, drapier fabric or perhaps a lighter weight with some stretch. The stiffness of the twill causes this fabric to wrinkle around any areas where your legs bend. 

Design Changes: 
There were no major design changes to this pattern. The only minor changes were to leave off the tie belt and belt loops. They just seemed a waste of time since I rarely tuck my shirts into my pants. The pattern for these pants matched up so nicely I'm sure it would be easy to lengthen or shorten them for different seasons. Some welt pockets in back would be a nice way to dress them up too. Here's a pic of the back view of my pants:

Closing Hints:   
I'm so happy this pattern was drafted so well. It made it easy to use for following along with the Craftsy class. I must admit after all the adding and subtracting to the pattern I was feeling a little deformed but I did end up with a very nice fitting pair of pants so it was all worth it in the end. 

Now I just need the weather to cool off enough to wear these. Here's hoping you're staying cool this Summer.

Ann in Calif. 

Sunday, May 21, 2017

Lutterloh Patterns Come Alive!- FASHION FLASHBACK

Vintage Supplement 109 Model #48 - Summer 1968
 Sleeveless Dress w/ shoulder tucks

It can get really hot here in parts of California so I pretty much live in casual dresses all Summer long. I'm always on the lookout for patterns that I can translate into easy care pull on dresses with just a little detail. This sleeveless dress with asymmetric shoulder tucks certainly fits the bill.

Pattern Drafting Hints:
Although this pattern is considered vintage I was able to enlarge it to my size with my modern Lutterloh scale. There are no odd numbered  dots to plot; they all fall either on a whole number or sometimes at the .5 mark. There are however quite a few dots to mark for the front bodice as you can see in the photo below.
Truly the front bodice is the only complicated step in this pattern. The rest of the pattern is pretty straightforward to draw and sew.

You'll see in the pattern photo above that there are three tucks on one side and a dart on the opposite side of the bodice. I found all of these needed some adjusting in the paper fitting stage. The side dart was way too high and the tucks just looked wonky once I pinned them in. The side dart was easy enough to change on my paper pattern but the tucks were a different story. Be prepared to fiddle with the tucks at the pinning stage because the fullness and height of your bust will determine where the tucks will look best. Here's a close up of how my tucks turned out.

Fabric Used/Suggested:
This casual version of this pattern is sewn in black cotton/poly interlock. The fabric has  stretch on the cross grain but none on the lengthwise grain. This makes the fabric a nice stable knit. The contrast band is a remnant of a poly/nylon jacquard.

This pattern was probably intended to be sewn in a dressier fabric like crepe with an overlay at the waist. A description in the front of the book refers to this as a party dress. My version is still party worthy but perhaps better suited to a backyard barbecue.

Design Changes:
The only design change to this pattern was to lower the neckline and shape it into a gentle V. The pattern, as originally drawn, ended up with a deceivingly high neckline. I needed to lower it a full two inches to achieve the shape you see here. I did also need to reduce the width of the waist more than my usual amount so you may want to do some quick measurements of the pattern before cutting your fabric.
Closing Hints:
For those that don't have this pattern, don't despair. If you check out this blog post here:
Making the most of your Lutterloh patterns
you should be able to refashion a basic pattern with bust darts and a full skirt with waist seam into one that resembles the vintage one. You will need to draw a whole front bodice piece like the one above and then change the dart to tucks on only one side.

If you'd rather just buy your patterns all worked out already there is a pattern like this vintage one in the newest Lutterloh supplement #305 here.. You'll see model #227 has a very similar shape. It doesn't have the asymmetrical tucks but it does sport a nice pleated skirt instead. The most important thing to remember here is the more you use your patterns the easier it is to imagine them in new ways.

So keep using those Lutterloh patterns and feel free to ask any questions or make comments on our blog here. We check for comments every day and we'd love to help you make the most of your Lutterloh patterns too!

Enjoy your sewing time,
Ann in Calif.